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Types of Knife Steel (and Why They Matter)

Posted by Admin on 11th Jul 2025

Choosing the right steel is one of the most critical steps in knife making. Steel isn't just "metal"—it's a carefully formulated combination of carbon, chromium, vanadium, and other elements, each contributing to the blade's hardness, toughness, edge retention, and corrosion resistance. And with so many options available today, from old-school carbon steels to cutting-edge powder metallurgy, it can feel overwhelming trying to pick the "best" one.

Truth is, there’s no single best steel for every knife. It all depends on what the knife needs to do.

This guide will walk you through the most popular steels in the knife world today—what they’re made of, what they do well, and when you should choose them. Whether you’re a new bladesmith just firing up the forge or a seasoned maker dialing in performance, this post will help you make more informed choices.

Key Knife Steel Traits to Know

Before jumping into the steel types, here are three main performance characteristics to balance:

  • Edge Retention – How long the knife stays sharp during use

  • Toughness – Resistance to chipping, cracking, or breaking

  • Corrosion Resistance – How well the blade resists rust and stains

These traits are often in tension—improving one can reduce another. The goal is finding the right balance for the job your knife is meant to do.

 1095/1084 Carbon Steel

  • Type: High carbon, non-stainless

  • Strengths: Very tough, easy to sharpen, affordable

  • Weaknesses: Low corrosion resistance

  • Best For: Bushcraft knives, survival knives, beginner forging

1095 is a popular choice for traditional blades and outdoor tools. It takes a fine edge easily and performs well in rough use—but it needs oiling or a protective coating to avoid rust.

52100 Bearing Steel

  • Type: High carbon alloy

  • Strengths: Excellent edge retention and toughness

  • Weaknesses: Prone to corrosion without proper care

  • Best For: High-performance kitchen and field knives

Often used in ball bearings, 52100 has incredible wear resistance and edge stability. It’s become a favorite among bladesmiths who like to forge their own knives.

 O1 Tool Steel

  • Type: Oil-hardening tool steel

  • Strengths: Easy to machine, good wear resistance

  • Weaknesses: Moderate corrosion resistance

  • Best For: Forging, general-purpose knives

O1 is ideal for forging and custom work. It takes heat treat well and has excellent grindability, making it a great choice for hand-made blades.

 A2 Tool Steel

  • Type: Air-hardening tool steel

  • Strengths: More wear-resistant than O1, holds an edge well

  • Weaknesses: Not as tough as some carbon steels

  • Best For: High-use knives that require long edge life

A2 offers a good compromise between edge retention and ease of sharpening. It’s slightly more difficult to machine, but a favorite for custom makers seeking balance.

 D2 Tool Steel

  • Type: Semi-stainless tool steel

  • Strengths: Great wear resistance, semi-stainless properties

  • Weaknesses: Harder to sharpen

  • Best For: EDC knives, hard-use blades

D2 walks the line between stainless and carbon steel. It has excellent abrasion resistance but isn’t quite stainless, so it can still stain or patina with use.

CPM 154 / CPM S35VN / S30V

  • Type: Powder metallurgy stainless steels

  • Strengths: High corrosion resistance, excellent edge retention, uniform structure

  • Weaknesses: More expensive, harder to forge

  • Best For: Premium EDC knives, chef knives, high-end customs

These steels are made using a powdered metallurgy process that creates a fine, consistent grain structure. The result? Incredible performance in every category. S35VN is known for its toughness, S30V for edge retention, and CPM 154 for clean stainless performance.

 440C Stainless

  • Type: Classic stainless

  • Strengths: Affordable, stainless, easy to polish

  • Weaknesses: Lower edge retention compared to modern steels

  • Best For: Entry-level stainless knives, kitchen blades

Once considered a top-tier stainless, 440C is now more of a budget-friendly option. It’s easy to work with and resists rust well, but performance is outpaced by newer steels.

 5160 Spring Steel

  • Type: Low alloy carbon steel

  • Strengths: Very tough, impact-resistant

  • Weaknesses: Prone to corrosion

  • Best For: Large blades, machetes, swords

5160 is legendary for its toughness. It’s widely used in swords, big bowies, and impact tools. It won’t hold a razor edge as long as harder steels, but it can take serious abuse.

 VG-10 and AUS-8 (Japanese Stainless Steels)

  • Type: High-end stainless

  • Strengths: VG-10 is known for sharpness and corrosion resistance, AUS-8 is easier to sharpen

  • Weaknesses: VG-10 can be prone to chipping, AUS-8 less edge retention

  • Best For: Kitchen knives, folding knives, general use

VG-10 is widely used in Japanese chef knives and high-end EDC blades. AUS-8 is a more budget-friendly option that sharpens easily.

80CrV2

  • Type: High carbon tool steel with vanadium

  • Pros: Very tough, great edge stability, good shock resistance

  • Cons: Not stainless; needs protection from rust

  • Best For: Hard-use knives, bushcraft, forged blades

Known as “the modern 1084,” 80CrV2 has become a favorite among bladesmiths for its toughness and predictable heat treatment. It’s forgiving in the shop and performs exceptionally well in the field.

50100 (Also called 52100)

  • Type: High carbon chromium alloy

  • Pros: Excellent wear resistance and edge retention

  • Cons: Limited corrosion resistance

  • Best For: Kitchen knives, high-performance utility knives

Used originally in ball bearings, this steel polishes beautifully and takes a keen edge. It’s popular among both stock removal and forged blade makers.

8670

  • Type: Nickel alloy carbon steel

  • Pros: Very tough, flexible, forgiving

  • Cons: Doesn’t hold an edge as long as harder steels

  • Best For: Choppers, beginner forging, axe-style blades

This steel is widely used in saw blades and makes a great budget-friendly option for tough blades. It excels in impact resistance but isn't a high-edge-retention steel.

15N20

  • Type: Nickel steel

  • Pros: Bright finish, great in damascus, decent toughness

  • Cons: Modest edge retention

  • Best For: Damascus layering, fillet knives, carving knives

Often paired with 1095 or 1084 in damascus billets, 15N20 etches bright and contrasts beautifully. It’s also fine as a standalone steel for slicing tasks.

4140

  • Type: Chromium-molybdenum steel (not designed for knives)

  • Pros: Very tough and durable

  • Cons: Poor edge retention

  • Best For: Hammers, tools—not recommended for knife edges

While tough and machinable, 4140 isn’t great for knives. Its edge-holding ability is too low, though it's often used for guards, pommels, or shop tooling.

AEB-L

  • Type: Stainless steel

  • Pros: Excellent toughness, fine grain, takes a screaming sharp edge

  • Cons: Modest wear resistance

  • Best For: Kitchen knives, razors, fine slicers

Originally developed for razor blades, AEB-L is extremely tough and capable of a very thin, fine edge. It’s a top pick for high-performance kitchen knives and is relatively easy to sharpen.

MagnaCut

  • Type: Stainless powder metallurgy

  • Pros: Exceptional edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance

  • Cons: Premium price

  • Best For: High-end EDC, survival knives, chef knives

Developed by metallurgist Larrin Thomas, MagnaCut offers a breakthrough balance of all three key knife properties. It’s quickly becoming the “dream steel” for modern knifemakers.

CPM S45VN

  • Type: Stainless powder metallurgy

  • Pros: Great corrosion resistance, better toughness than S35VN

  • Cons: Premium cost

  • Best For: Premium EDC, folding knives, kitchen knives

A refinement of S35VN with more chromium and niobium, S45VN is tough, rust-resistant, and has better edge retention than its predecessors.

CPM S90V

  • Type: High-vanadium stainless

  • Pros: Extreme edge retention, high corrosion resistance

  • Cons: Very hard to sharpen

  • Best For: Knives where edge life is critical (EDC, hunting, slicing)

With sky-high vanadium content, S90V holds an edge for ages. But it’s hard on abrasives and slow to sharpen, so it’s best for users who won’t mind occasional touch-ups with diamond stones.

Elmax

  • Type: Stainless powder metallurgy

  • Pros: Great combination of wear resistance, corrosion resistance, and toughness

  • Cons: Slightly harder to sharpen

  • Best For: Premium fixed blades, folders, chef knives

A European supersteel, Elmax is used in many high-end production knives. It offers excellent balance and is well-regarded for its edge holding in real-world use.

CPM 20CV (aka M390 or CTS-204P)

  • Type: Powder metallurgy stainless

  • Pros: Exceptional corrosion resistance and edge holding

  • Cons: Sharpening is slow without diamonds

  • Best For: High-end EDC, chef knives, collector knives

CPM 20CV, M390, and CTS-204P are nearly identical steels made by different companies. They’re popular in custom and premium production blades for their all-around high performance.

CPM D2

  • Type: Powder metallurgy version of D2

  • Pros: Better toughness and consistency than regular D2

  • Cons: Semi-stainless, still difficult to sharpen

  • Best For: Tactical knives, hunting, fixed blades

Traditional D2 has a reputation for being hard and wear-resistant, but CPM D2 improves on that with finer grain and more reliable performance.

What Steel Should You Choose?

Here’s a simple way to narrow it down:

  • Just starting out? 1095 or O1 are forgiving, affordable, and easy to heat treat.

  • Making a hard-use outdoor or bushcraft knife? Look at 5160, 52100, or A2.

  • Want a low-maintenance, stainless blade? CPM 154, S30V, or VG-10 are great options.

  • Forging your own? 1095, O1, and 52100 forge well and respond predictably to heat treatment.

  • Going for a premium knife? Invest in CPM steels or high-end stainless like S35VN.

It’s also worth noting that how you heat treat and finish the steel matters just as much as the steel itself. Even a basic steel can perform incredibly well if heat-treated properly.

Here’s a quick rundown to help guide your choice:

  • Best for beginners (easy to work, heat treat): 1095, 80CrV2, O1

  • Best for toughness and impact resistance: 5160, 8670, 80CrV2

  • Best edge retention: CPM S90V, 20CV, MagnaCut

  • Best corrosion resistance: MagnaCut, Elmax, S45VN, AEB-L

  • Best for kitchen knives: AEB-L, 50100, MagnaCut

  • Best for EDC and folders: CPM 20CV, S45VN, S35VN, Elmax

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best knife steel isn't about picking the "strongest" or "sharpest" material on paper. It's about understanding what kind of performance you need—whether that’s rugged toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening, or edge longevity.

With so many great options out there today, the real win is in knowing how to match the steel to the job. Once you’ve got that dialed in, you’ll be better equipped to make—or buy—a knife that delivers exactly what you want.